One of my favorite memories from Hawaii was playing in the waves with Zac. We stood within 20-30 feet of the shore where the waves would crash, and we'd try to stay standing while they pushed us back toward shore.
At times the waves were so powerful! I found I could stay standing best when I stood with one foot in front of the other, crouched down, and leaned into the wave. Usually this worked, but sometimes I still got pushed over!
Sometimes we would see a big wave coming, and just as it was about to hit us, we would jump and try to defy gravity and the wave at the same time.
Other times we just gave in and tried to coast in on the wave. When we saw a big one coming, we would turn toward shore and swim as hard and as fast as we possibly could and try to get the wave to push us onto shore. One of the times we did this, the wave REALLY carried me. It took me into the sandy shore bank and pushed me into it hard. I put my hands in front of me and tried not to do a faceplant into the sand! There was a lot of sandy water gushing over me and let's just say I really had to clean out my swimsuit after that!
It was so fun to play like kids in the waves. I giggled and giggled and squealed as the waves hit! We had a blast throwing our inhibitions aside and just being goofy together.
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